MOLECULAR FRAGRANCES - THE NICHE OF ESCENTRIC MOLECULES
It all began with the dream of Geza Schoen. A man passionate about chemistry, striving to create the perfume of the new century. And he succeeded. In the world of perfumery, few brands have managed to cultivate as loyal a fan base as Escentric Molecules.
The brand, founded by Schoen, has revolutionised the way we experience fragrances. His legacy: forging fragrances centred around a single molecule, rather than the usual combination of ingredients. Contrary to traditional perfumery, molecular perfumes focus on the interaction of various aromas with the human sense of smell.
By concentrating on individual aromatic molecules, his work has sparked a fascination with fragrances. His flagship product, Molecule 01, has been the catalyst for this transformation.
Molecule 01: The Magic of Iso E Super
The journey of the Escentric Molecules brand begins with a molecule that does not exist in nature: Iso E Super. This substance was developed in a laboratory at IFF (International Flavours & Fragrances, USA) in 1973. For a long time, this ingredient remained largely unknown in the world of fragrances, due to public opinion on the chemical versus the natural. However, it is the molecule responsible for the success of many of the world’s most renowned perfumes.
The Iso E Super molecule is known for its velvety and enveloping effect, a subtle and irresistible presence in the aromatic compositions of the largest commercial brands. Schoen investigated its ability to blend with the natural scent of the skin, discovering with Molecule 01 its capacity to project a completely personal and unique aura to the wearer.
It is a perfume with a personality of its own, as its reactivity and presence may go unnoticed by the wearer, while others enjoy the unique aroma it emits. Its notes vary throughout the day and over time.
The launch of Molecule 01 in 2006 marked a turning point in perfumery. Users have described it as a kind of “modern love potion.” The ephemeral nature of the fragrance, which seems to disappear and reappear on the skin, is due to the way Iso E Super interacts with olfactory receptors. It is released gradually and slowly, offering a completely personal olfactory experience.
The brand has two ranges: Molecule and Escentric. The Molecule perfumes are single molecules, with special editions of olfactory notes. The Escentric range, on the other hand, consists of combinations of notes, usually starting with their corresponding Molecule. For instance, Escentric 01, the counterpart of Molecule 01, explores Iso E Super at 65%, combining it with ingredients such as lime peel, hedione (a green jasmine bud), orris, and balsamic notes. This formula seeks to highlight the character of Iso E Super with a touch of freshness and sophistication.
Carving a Niche: Molecule 02, 03, 04, and 05
Following the success of Molecule 01 and Escentric 01, Schoen continued to explore his new niche with new molecules. Each pair of fragrances in the Escentric Molecules series focuses on a singular aromatic molecule, such as Ambroxan in Escentric 02 and Cashmeran in Molecule 05.
Escentric 02, for example, contains 13.5% Ambroxan, a molecule known for its sensual quality and its ability to offer a radiant, long-lasting drydown. The formula also incorporates hedione and a “gin and tonic” accord. The result is prolonged freshness with sensuality. Interestingly, the amount of Ambroxan used is the maximum allowed before it begins to crystallise. This demonstrates the strong innovative and research-driven approach of Escentric Molecules.
Molecule 05, on the other hand, stands out for its use of Cashmeran, a molecule with musky softness and aromatic wood, combined with a resinous pine note. Cashmeran, created in the 1970s, offers distinctive complexity for a single molecule. It combines warmth, softness, and great depth.
Schoen’s Unique Vision
Geza Schoen, the brain (and nose) behind Escentric Molecules, is a perfumer who has challenged the norms of his industry. Born in Kassel, Germany, and based in Berlin, Schoen began his career at Haarmann & Reimer (now Symrise). He worked with various brands before founding Escentric Molecules in 2006.
His discovery of the power of Iso E Super on its own changed everything. Schoen realised that the fragrances that attracted him contained large doses of this molecule. He decided to experiment with Iso E Super in unprecedented concentrations, leading to the creation of the first Escentric Molecules range.
His work has gone beyond creating perfumes. By focusing on synthetic molecules and demystifying their use, Schoen has promoted greater acceptance and appreciation of these ingredients in perfumery. Molecule 01, in particular, has become a cult fragrance, known for its ability to be completely unique to each individual.
