THE STATE OF FASHION IN 2025
Following a year of constant change, 2025 is shaping up to be a year full of debuts, premieres, and the persistence of fresh creative visions. The fashion landscape is ever-evolving, and 2025 promises to be pivotal for some of the industry’s most iconic houses. From Alessandro Michele at Valentino to Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, and the anticipated moves of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Michael Rider at Celine.
In this blog, we review key plays and movements shaping this exciting period of transition. We’ll analyze how these designers and their unique trajectories are steering these houses in new directions. Some we’ve already witnessed, others are yet to come, and some remain mysteries yet to be unveiled.
Alessandro Michele at Valentino
Since his appointment as creative director of Valentino in March 2024, Alessandro Michele has generated expectations that leave no one indifferent. Known for transforming other brands into maximalist icons between 2015 and 2022, Michele has brought his unmistakable signature to Valentino.
His debut marks a radical shift from the public’s previous perception of Valentino—not by severing the brand’s roots, but by delving deeper into its history. Michele is renowned for exploring unexplored corners of the archives of major houses, creating references that often evoke the naïveté of the ’60s and ’70s. This new Valentino isn’t just an extension of Michele’s aesthetic; it redefines the Roman house’s heritage, especially its opulent and theatrical flair of the ’60s and ’70s.
Michele’s unexpected debut with the Resort 2025 collection, Avant les Débuts, provided a glimpse of what was to come: highly stylised pieces infused with historical references and baroque details, challenging gender norms while celebrating individual self-expression. This is Michele’s essence.
With Pavillon des Folies, his first runway show for Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Paris, Michele elevated his vision to another level. Inspired by countercultural vibes and Valentino’s archival codes, he paid homage to the rebellious youth of the ’60s with oversized tailored suits, bohemian dresses laden with lingerie details, and an explosion of colours and textures.
Under Michele, Valentino clothing isn’t just a nostalgic look at the past. His reinterpretation celebrates Valentino clothing’s rich history while exuding creativity—a maximalist stance on life, art, and fashion.
Chemena Kamali at Chloé
Chemena Kamali’s debut at Chloé in February 2024 was a milestone, placing the French maison back in the global spotlight. After years of changes, Kamali has successfully revitalised Chloé ’s DNA. Her approach is both fresh and nostalgic, celebrating the boho-chic and ’70s hippie roots of the original Chloé. Her inaugural show, Intuition, redefined the brand’s modern spirit with a nod to the past and a renewed sensibility.
Inspired by optimism and spontaneity, Kamali presented a repertoire of airy blouses, ethereal dresses, and pieces with lingerie details. The entire collection evoked the carefree femininity that defines the brand’s history.
Each garment carried an emotional component, partly motivated by Kamali’s tribute to her father, who passed away weeks before the show. The emotional highlight came when her young son joined her on the runway—a viral and entirely spontaneous moment.
Chloé ’s Spring 2025 collection, dubbed the Freedom Collection, solidified Kamali’s vision as the brand’s creative director. Presented at the Tennis Club in Paris, the show unfolded in a bright, natural setting. The references to ’70s boho-chic were unmistakable, with floral prints, lingerie details, loose silhouettes, and delicate finishes. Leather bags adorned with charms in the shapes of shells, stones, and bananas added a playful touch to the line. Wooden platform clogs engraved with messages evoked the nostalgia of teenagers carving initials into trees.
Kamali’s designs draw from her deep knowledge of Chloé, honed through her work with Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller. Her emotional vision and nostalgic character have reignited the popularity of Chloé’s boho-chic style.
Michael Rider at Celine
Michael Rider was appointed creative director of Celine the same day Hedi Slimane announced his departure from the brand. Rider officially assumed his new role in January 2025, but he’s no stranger to Celine, having worked under Phoebe Philo for a decade. His return promises a shift following Slimane’s dynamic chapter.
Photo Courtesy of Celine
Rider also spent time as creative director at Polo Ralph Lauren from 2018 to May 2023, where he revitalised the preppy style and reintroduced it with a cool factor into a market saturated with American fashion nostalgia. His experience at Balenciaga and his intimate connection with Celine position him as a natural successor.
According to the media in the months leading up to his debut, Rider’s appointment represents a sort of return to the Philo era at Celine. However, his track record demonstrates his ability to blend the classic with the contemporary, appealing to younger audiences.
The challenge is immense, as Slimane brought Celine to record revenues of €2.6 billion in 2023, making it LVMH’s third most important brand. Nevertheless, Rider’s seemingly understated vision could mark the beginning of a new era. His first show is expected in early 2025.
Matthieu Blazy at Chanel
Another monumental shift in fashion: After three years of growing success at Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy has accepted the industry’s most coveted role following Karl Lagerfeld’s passing—Chanel’s artistic director.
Blazy’s tenure at Bottega Veneta was unforgettable. His infusion of humor and youthful character made the brand one of the most sought-after during his creative leadership. Now, Chanel entrusts Blazy to carry forward the legacy of one of the world’s most famous maisons de mode.
Blazy’s appointment comes at a critical moment for Chanel. After the transitional leadership of Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld’s right hand, Viard left the brand in 2024. Chanel now seeks a complete renewal under Blazy’s dynamic and artistically sensitive approach.
Before the announcement, names like Marc Jacobs, Thom Browne, Simon P. Jacquemus, and John Galliano were rumored to take the helm. However, Chanel sought a less media-driven figure to focus on forging a new chapter for the brand.
Blazy is celebrated for his innovative ability to put craftsmanship at the forefront, leveraging the savoir-faire of luxury houses. From his viral bejewelled faces at Maison Margiela to the iconic bags of Bottega Veneta, Blazy seems destined to strengthen major fashion houses.
Whatever happens, we wish him the best after an impeccable stint at Bottega Veneta.
Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta
With Blazy’s departure, a new name takes the helm at Bottega Veneta: Louise Trotter. Her career has been marked by functional elegance and brand reinvention. Her vision, rooted in proportions, architecture, and modern design, promises to further the minimalism that defines Bottega Veneta.
Photo Courtesy of Kering
Trotter began her career at Whistles and Jigsaw, gaining insight into the needs of today’s consumers. Her leadership at Joseph from 2009 transformed the brand into a benchmark of contemporary minimalism with polished lines, sophisticated pieces, and an aspirational yet accessible aura.
At Lacoste, Trotter made history as the maison’s first female director. There, she reimagined classics like the polo shirt and introduced innovative materials. Later, at Carven, she revived the brand’s youthful spirit with fresh, sculptural collections.
At Bottega Veneta, Trotter inherits a house in full bloom, renowned for its artisanal tradition. Her emphasis on materials and youth may sustain innovation in the brand’s ready-to-wear collections while introducing new bags and accessories for the next generation.
The industry eagerly awaits her debut, set for October 2025, which will mark the beginning of a new era for one of global luxury’s most respected houses.
The replacement for John Galliano at Maison Margiela?
With yet another imminent departure, this time Galliano from Maison Margiela, two questions arise: Who will succeed him? And where will he go next?
After a decade at Maison Margiela, John Galliano bids farewell, leaving behind a legacy of unparalleled creativity. Announced through an emotional Instagram post, the news marks the end of an era for the maison founded by Martin Margiela.
Galliano took on the creative directorship in 2014, gradually elevating the cult brand to new heights. Among other milestones, he relaunched its haute couture line and popularized the Tabi shoe that has defined the brand since its inception. In a space previously characterized by anonymity and conceptual experimentation, the British designer brought his signature theatricality. His shows combined unique storytelling with Margiela’s disruptive essence. His vision culminated in the iconic Artisanal Spring 2024 show, where narrative and technique created an experience that exceeded all expectations.
Under Galliano, Margiela experienced exponential growth, with sales increasing by 23% in 2023, and the Tabi shoe becoming a cultural icon. As he departs after a decade of brilliance and constant development, we’re left wondering: Who will come next? And where will John go?