INDUSTRY SHIFTS: WHO’S GOING WHERE

The fashion world is closing a chapter. The unexpected departures and new creative appointments at major fashion houses mark a shift in paradigm—one filled with new debuts, exits, nominations, twists and surprises.

From Jonathan Anderson’s departure from Loewe to Demna’s arrival at Gucci, the industry is undergoing a real game of musical chairs among creative directors. Fashion houses are betting on new visions, choosing between continuity, rupture, or a return to their roots. All this during an especially turbulent moment for luxury fashion.

Why is this happening now? What impact will it have on the future of the industry? We take a look at the most surprising exits, the new names stepping in, and what we can expect from this new era in fashion.

Let’s Talk Departures

Last year and the first months of 2025 have been marked by a wave of resignations and farewells. Some designers left after decades of leadership, while others exited after just a few seasons.

Jonathan Anderson Leaves Loewe

After 11 years at the helm of Loewe, Jonathan Anderson says goodbye to the Spanish house. His creative direction completely transformed the brand, elevating it to one of the most influential names in fashion. Thanks to a firm commitment to craftsmanship, art and innovation, his legacy includes iconic milestones like the Puzzle Bag, which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year.

Matthieu Blazy Moves to Chanel

Following his success at Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy left the brand to be appointed Artistic Director at Chanel. His ability to modernize luxury while respecting heritage makes him a strong choice for a house in search of a creative refresh.

Donatella Versace Steps Down as Creative Director

After nearly three decades (28 years) leading the brand founded by her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace steps down as Creative Director to become Brand Ambassador. Her impact on Versace has been undeniable, solidifying its image of luxury, opulence and powerful femininity. The brand was recently acquired by the Prada Group.

Kim Jones Leaves Dior Menswear

After seven successful years, Kim Jones steps down as Artistic Director of Dior’s menswear. His blend of classic tailoring with streetwear influences greatly boosted the men’s line and significantly increased its global sales.

Sabato De Sarno Leaves Gucci After Less Than Two Years

One of the most unexpected departures, Sabato De Sarno’s time at Gucci was brief. His focus on elegant minimalism couldn’t secure a long tenure. This week, the house announced his successor: Demna Gvasalia, renowned for his work at Balenciaga.

John Galliano Exits Maison Margiela

The designer who brought haute couture to Maison Margiela says farewell after almost a decade. His theatrical presentations and conceptual approach revitalized the house, making it one of the most sought-after in avant-garde fashion.

Hedi Slimane Leaves Celine

The designer who transformed Celine and skyrocketed its sales to record levels has left his post. He is succeeded by Michael Rider, who previously worked alongside Phoebe Philo during her acclaimed era at the house.

Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez Leave Proenza Schouler

The co-founders of Proenza Schouler, who have led the label since 2002, step down as Creative Directors but will remain involved as advisors. Their exit signals a major shift at one of the most influential names in American fashion—and a longtime favourite of Anna Wintour. The pair is set to join Loewe coming 2025.

Which Debuts Are We Expecting This Year?

With so many vacancies, the world of luxury welcomes a new generation of creatives—while some familiar faces return to houses they once helped define.

Dario Vitale, New Creative Director at Versace

With a standout career that includes revamping Miu Miu, Dario Vitale takes the reins at Versace. His challenge? To maintain the brand’s distinctive glamour while giving it a modern new lens.

Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez Join Loewe

Announced March 24th, the creative partners seemed to anticipate their move by leaving behind their much revered NYFW brand. Known for their love of modern art, futuristic views and work on fabric innovation, the pair is set to take over menswear, womenswear and accessories from April 7th, 2025.

Demna Joins Gucci

Arguably the most impactful appointment of the season, Demna leaves Balenciaga to become Gucci’s new Artistic Director starting July 2025. His irreverent, disruptive vision could completely transform the Italian house’s identity.

Glenn Martens to Lead Maison Margiela

Following Galliano’s departure, Glenn Martens has been named Creative Director of Maison Margiela. Known for his work at Diesel and Y/Project, Martens brings a balance of bold experimentation and refined innovation that aligns well with Margiela’s DNA. His debut is expected this September.

Alessandro Michele Revives Valentino

After leaving Gucci in 2022, Alessandro Michele returned to fashion in early 2024 as Creative Director of Valentino. His maximalist and romantic aesthetic fits perfectly with the brand’s codes and heritage.

Michael Rider Returns to Celine

Former right-hand man to Phoebe Philo, Michael Rider returns to Celine as the new Creative Director. His appointment hints at a potential revival of the house’s minimalist elegance from the Philo era.

Sarah Burton Takes Over at Givenchy

After 13 years leading Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton steps into Givenchy as its new Creative Director, debuting during the most recent fashion week. Her structured, feminine designs promise a return to the legacy of Hubert de Givenchy.

Louise Trotter Arrives at Bottega Veneta

With previous roles at Carven and Lacoste, Louise Trotter is now the Creative Director of Bottega Veneta. She is expected to continue the brand’s tradition of craftsmanship and innovation following Matthieu Blazy’s exit to Chanel.

Haider Ackermann Leads Tom Ford

The designer known for his fluid, genderless elegance becomes the new Creative Director of Tom Ford, while maintaining his role at Canada Goose. His Tom Ford debut in March 2025 earned one of the rare standing ovations from Anna Wintour.

 

With so many major creative shifts, 2025 will be a defining year for the fashion world. Some brands may be reborn, while others might polarize their audiences.

One thing is certain: luxury fashion has never been so dynamic, and we are entering a new era of creativity and experimentation.