For Sacai Spring/Summer 2026, Chitose Abe returns to the origin without repeating herself. Presented in her Paris studio, the collection carries something of an intimate return and an affirmation of her foundational vision: the beauty of the hybrid and of unfinished constructions. Abe underscores her personal vocabulary, the one she has built over more than two decades in the industry as one of the most exclusive voices on the international stage. For the first time in Spain, you can find the hybridisation of Sacai clothing at OTTODISANPIETRO women.
In this collection, the conceptual axis could be summarised in a single idea: unfinished tailoring. As one of the most complex disciplines in the industry, tailoring entails a certain mastery and skill in order to deconstruct it. To train in order to reform. Chitose Abe proposes, in Sacai, a series of pieces with visible seams, duplicated shoulders and lapels that, only through the movement of air, reveal intimate and meaningful layers. The process is exposed and demystified. In this way, the suit ceases to be a private and restrictive construction and becomes something mutable.
Classic jackets expand with peplums created from padded shoulder structures, a hybridisation now synonymous with Sacai. Cargo trousers appear, paradoxically folding into skirts, and in the process reduce the formality of tailoring. Dresses emerge from the almost atomic collision between the classic formal tuxedo shirt and an ethereal, fluid chiffon. In Sacai, there is always an apparent tension between the utilitarian and the ethereal. Between containment and release, in a debate that seems to have no end.
Denim appears in superimposed layers, rebellious and frayed. Jackets and MA-1s are layered over long, trailing dresses, ceremonial in tone, adding a sense of drama long missed in fashion. Even tweed, unravelled until it becomes a cloud-like fabric, is the product of the house’s precise and renowned textile engineering.
The collection, continuing its commercial line, reaffirmed its relationship with workwear through the Carhartt WIP collaboration. In 2026, Sacai reminds us that modernity does not always consist in inventing something new. Sometimes it consists in opening it up, tearing into its interior, and revealing the process.