SPRING/SUMMER 2025 COLLECTIONS AND TRENDS

Spring/Summer 2025 is a showcase of imagination at its finest. From Milan to Paris, the runway shows of major fashion houses have brought forward ideas, gestures and perspectives that speak to our present moment. Bohemian, theatrical, artisanal, nostalgic, cosmic... Everything coexists within a single season—and often within a single collection. There is no singular direction, but rather multiple paths that reveal brands with purpose.

In this editorial journey, we highlight some of the most compelling collections, crafted by designers who express a distinct vision of the world with every show. Anthony Vaccarello pays tribute to the eternal legacy of Yves Saint Laurent with breath-stealing elegance. Meanwhile in Milan, J.J. Martin brought back the joy of dressing as a spiritual act with La DoubleJ. Matthieu Blazy bids farewell to Bottega Veneta with an ode to childhood and tenderness. Chemena Kamali solidifies her poetic vision at the helm of Chloé. And Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons remind us that, in fashion as in life, complexity is the most human of qualities.

These are the houses setting the pace. And these are their ways of imagining the world this summer.

Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2025

Anthony Vaccarello delivers one of his most explicit homages to the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent. With a collection that reinterprets the house's historical codes, he draws on the past with a sharp and contemporary lens. The result: looks that not only show technical mastery but make us feel as if we’re dreaming with our eyes open.

Presented at the house’s headquarters at 37 Rue de Bellechasse, the Saint Laurent runway unfolded beneath a monumental golden frieze—bridging the eternal Paris with Yves’s intimate Marrakech. A rain-slicked runway, oval choreography and an inner glow reminiscent of starlight created the perfect backdrop.

Tailoring takes centre stage, true to the spirit of Yves. Double-breasted blazers with pointed shoulders, wide trousers and fabrics that flow with effortless sensuality. Statement sunglasses, wide ties and oversized trench coats directly reference Yves himself—in a fluid, nearly self-referential way.

The show transitions into a more bohemian femininity, echoing the spirit of the house’s muses: lace blouses, ruffled skirts, and lingerie-inspired dresses embroidered in lurex. The palette unfolds from the deepest black into fuchsia, green, burgundy, blue and acidic orange.

A standout moment of the season, a fitting finale to Paris Fashion Week, and a reaffirmation of fashion’s power as a language.

 

La DoubleJ Spring/Summer 2025

In a presentation overflowing with joie de vivre, spirituality and beauty, J.J. Martin transformed Milan’s Circolo Filologico into a portal of high vibrational energy. La DoubleJ’s Spring/Summer 2025 was a fully sensory experience: a five-hour “energy bath,” as the team called it, combining fashion, mantras and sound healing.

This season, Martin strengthens her visual language through intentional maximalism. La DoubleJ dresses appear bathed in prints referencing sacred geometry, chakras and floral symbols like the iris (hope) and zinnia (friendship). The silhouettes remain wide, fluid, and are enriched with macramé embroidery, lace intarsia and raffia embellishments. Lightweight knitwear and printed suits are balanced with plain shirting to offset the brand’s signature burst of colour.

Among the collection’s must-haves are the Marlene dress in chiffon silk, the Hey Jude! dress in crêpe de chine and the Sarong skirt. Each piece feels like a talisman.

 

Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2025

Matthieu Blazy invited us to daydream. A golden-lit stage resembling a playroom set the tone for a collection that celebrates sincerity, imagination and the art of growing up without losing our sense of wonder.

Instead of traditional front row seats, guests sat on animal-shaped beanbags—foxes, penguins, orcas, dogs, bears, dragons and ladybugs—like a scene pulled from childhood. This ground-level perspective reinforced the childlike gaze of the collection, as if admiring the world from a smaller height. The seats were part of a limited-edition series inspired by Zanotta’s iconic 1968 Sacco chair, renamed “The Ark” for the occasion.

The opening looks evoked a child playing dress-up in their parents’ clothes: extra-oversized tailoring in soft greys and bold reds, alongside jumpsuits and sets with intentionally asymmetric cuts. Trousers cropped at different lengths, jackets with altered proportions and sculptural leather dresses with paillettes—all subverted expectations while retaining Bottega Veneta’s signature refinement. Also in Bottega Veneta for men.

The craftsmanship, once again, was outstanding. What looked like denim turned out to be jacquard-woven merino wool. Leather became sculptural, even adorned with bunnies or frogs hugging shoe heels. Sequinned matches, artfully wrinkled fabrics... This was a brave, enchanting collection—one that embraces tenderness as a universal language.

A beautiful farewell love letter from Matthieu Blazy, now headed to Chanel.

Chloé Spring/Summer 2025

Chemena Kamali confirmed what many suspected after her debut: Chloé has returned to its roots. Titled the “Freedom Collection,” the Spring/Summer 2025 show paid tribute to the most sensual and optimistic boho spirit—one that has defined the maison since the 1970s. Models floated down the runway in sheer dresses, billowy jumpsuits, and lingerie-inspired sets (Chloé-style). The result was soft, ethereal, and deeply emotional (Kamali-style).

Having worked at Chloé during the Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller eras, Kamali demonstrates an insider’s intimacy with the archives. Her reinterpretation of the 1978 lace bloomers and 1977 waist-cinched silhouettes marks a new visual language: one shaped by sun-faded fabrics and gossamer textures. Her understanding of femininity feels instinctual, personal—and it shows in every piece.

The collection balances the romantic and the everyday, as Gaby Aghion once envisioned. High-waist Capri trousers, airy boxy blouses, sheer overlays and cotton suiting are all part of a summer wardrobe as real as it is dreamlike.

Accessories echo this carefree spirit: eroded stones, crochet details, handwoven shells and silhouettes handcrafted over four days (like the Hobo Summer Banana bag). Chloé and Kamali win us over again with a weightlessness that feels grounded in joy.

 

Prada Spring/Summer 2025

Miuccia Prada is never afraid to be critical. In a context dominated by algorithmic logic and visual sameness, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons present a deeply rebellious collection. Their Spring/Summer 2025 offering is, in their own words, “a dedication to the individual.” Each look represents a separate reality—a fragmented, coexisting narrative that rejects any attempt at uniformity.

The show was an unexpected clash of cross-references: UFO-like visors, sequin dresses paired with tech outerwear, and an aesthetic that merged comic books with science fiction. Fetish touches met contemporary Western elements, with skirts held by harnesses and dresses tilted by hidden frameworks. Every shoe was different, as were the bags—many revived from the archive. Each look challenged cohesion in favour of celebrating the complexity of personal style.

Prada’s answer to algorithmic conformity is a bold embrace of aesthetic chaos as a form of freedom. There’s no clear narrative arc—nor is one needed. Fashion here becomes a challenge. And in that act of defiance, Prada once again leads the way, setting trends and offering a necessary philosophy for how to dress with spontaneity, curiosity and conviction.