On July 6, 2025, under a grey Parisian sky over Rue Vivienne, Michael Rider presented his first show for Celine. The scene felt intimate, like a quiet ceremony filled with anticipation. The courtyard of the historic building housing the maison’s studio and atelier was covered by a vast silk scarf suspended between its walls, a poetic preview of the house’s new codes. The seats were arranged in the shape of the Triomphe, as if Celine’s emblem itself were welcoming a new era. In the front row, the cultural weight of the moment was palpable: BTS V arriving on a Celine bicycle, Kristen Wiig, Naomi Watts and her daughter Kai Schreiber, Alanis Morissette, Jonathan Anderson, Raf Simons, Law Roach, and Anna Wintour. The sound of rain became almost another guest, one that never disrupted the expectation in the air.
Rider’s arrival followed the Hedi Slimane era (2018–2024). Under Slimane, the maison removed the accent from “Céline,” introduced a new logo, launched menswear, and expanded its universe with fragrances (2019) and makeup. Financially, public estimates placed Celine’s revenue at around 2.6 billion euros in 2023, up from roughly 1 billion in 2018, making it one of LVMH’s leading fashion houses. That set a demanding benchmark for the new chapter.
Rider’s first collection, merging womenswear and menswear, established a shared point of departure, free from gender distinctions. He sought not to erase but to build upon what came before: the intellectual strength of Phoebe Philo and the bourgeois precision of Hedi Slimane. As he put it, “There was a solid foundation to build on. I didn’t want any sense of erasure.”
On the runway, the silhouettes hinted at smiles, like those on the bags. Camel blazers deliberately twisted over denim shirts and fitted trousers. Leggings, white jeggings, and equestrian pants revisited the appeal of skinny lines, while wide pleats and cocoon coats added lightness and movement. The collection embodied an active, vital Celine client, someone eager to move through the world. Long coats with padded shoulders, draped parkas, and soft leather biker jackets bridged Paris and New York. Rider’s preppy touch appeared with humor and grace: rugby shirts turned into dresses, red and blue blazers, tartan shirts, and supple leather loafers. For evening, a little black dress and a white gown symbolized the maison’s new duality.
Leather goods held the emotional center of the debut. Philo’s iconic Celine Luggage bag returned as the New Celine Luggage Smile Variation, its curved zipper forming a smile. New proportions, glossy lambskin, and shades of ultra blue and citrus set the tone for its global release. Rider has brought to Celine not rupture, but transition, a more human expression of Celine’s enduring elegance.