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Article: The Present of Fashion: a Time of Change

The Present of Fashion: a Time of Change

In a few months everything we knew has been turned around. The current situation has led us to rethink essential aspects of our lives and to act accordingly, changing everything from the way we interact with each other to how we buy and enjoy our leisure time. As it could not be otherwise, fashion is simultaneously going through a process of renewal; inevitably, social and cultural changes extend to all activities.

One of the first changes this year was the announcement of Saint Laurent to exit the regular fashion schedule. Leaving behind the fast-paced nature of the industry, Anthony Vaccarello and Saint Laurent will present their next collections "taking back control of their pace" and moving away from the lengthy appointment schedule we have become accustomed to.

In the same vein, Alessandro Michele and Gucci announced last May that the Italian house would also start marching to its own rhythm. Michele's new strategy for Gucci involves only two shows without a specific season, which connects directly with the core of his project Gucci Equilibrium, from which initiatives are promoted to reduce the company's environmental footprint and generate positive change for people and the planet.

Changes continued swiftly, and in mid-June, Matthew M. Williams was appointed Creative Director of Givenchy, commiting to design for a new era focused on "modernity and inclusivity". This is not the first time major fashion houses turn to unorthodox designers: Virgil Abloh, founder of Off-White, is the Creative Director of Louis Vuitton and Demna Gvasalia, co-founder of Vetements, is revolutionising Balenciaga since 2015.

This month we were looking forward to Fashion Week. Physical experiences are hard to replace, but the digital version of the event is leaving a positive impression, with ideas that go beyond streaming on video platforms.

In the Paris chapter (finished early last week) Jonathan Anderson and Loewe took a qualitative leap into the world of new possibilities. Along with a virtual presentation and a 24-hour event full of online features, Anderson designed 'Show-in-a-Box', an archive box containing the entire creative process of the collection in a tactile experience that includes everything from the initial inspirations to the setting of the show.

Prada also left a good impression on the first day of Milan's Digital Fashion Week. Miuccia (who from now on will design together with Raf Simons, making their debut next September) opted for live video streaming, but bringing together the creative perspectives of Terence Nance, Joanna Piotrowska, Martine Syms, Juergen Teller and Willy Vanderperre in an 11-minute audiovisual piece which, in five chapters, gives a particular vision of the collection, in which the House continues its long lasting conversation between classic and contemporary.

It seems clear that we are going through a time of change that will define the future of the fashion world. The scope and how we will respond to them only time will tell; we are looking forward to seeing how it progresses.

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