In September 2022, we were all surprised by the news from Burberry. That month, the immediate departure of Riccardo Tisci from the brand was announced. Tisci had led the creative direction of Burberry clothing for the previous five years, bringing his underground and dark tone to the collections. Surrounding the house with a whole new mythology and powerful celebrity alliances, the question of who would be his successor arose.
But these doubts wouldn't last long. Just twenty-four hours later, Burberry announced the replacement of a legendary figure in fashion: Daniel Lee. Lee was responsible for reviving the dormant house of Bottega Veneta. His departure made waves in the fashion scene after a string of successes with the brand. It was for this reason that Burberry chose to entrust Daniel Lee.
His initial collections did not disappoint. With his classic strategic maximalism, Daniel Lee's new Burberry began its first chapter. We'll share the key points of Daniel Lee's Burberry clothing.
THE WINDS OF CHANGE
At Burberry, Lee found a space to unleash his sense of humour. Under the banner of "The Winds of Change," duck prints adorned several pieces from his first collection. This detail was noted by Sarah Mower for Vogue UK, and this possible reference to expressions from the North of England ("Lovely weather for ducks!") constitutes the essence of the designer's reconnection with his roots. Interestingly, we can say that "Winds of Change" was also a lyric from the song by The Scorpions that Bottega Veneta released about their previous collection.
More than just an interesting cross-reference? Possibly, a distant nod to the brand that propelled him to fame.
THE YOUTH EXPERIENCE
Lee is known for his ability to create designs coveted by older generations and admired by the younger ones. His first runway show was a 360-degree experience: guests, wrapped in blankets and served hot toddies (a traditional Irish winter drink), were fully immersed in the damp landscapes of the UK for which the collection was designed.
Amongst pieces strategically layered, there was a practicality that had been missing in previous collections. Burberry was born as workwear, specifically the trench coat. Its weather-resistant fabrics and versatile designs have brought Burberry back to life with a designer who lived it as part of his heritage.
The Casette bag. The Pouch. The (new) Jodie... All of these accessories with their own names are the result of Lee's work for Bottega Veneta, taking control of global street style. From Chiara Ferragni to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Hailey Bieber, Rihanna, Dua Lipa... Major icons of modern style elevated Daniel Lee's accessories to must-haves of their seasons.
Now, Lee has translated his strategies to his new project. In the new Burberry, accessories and layering pieces once again take center stage. Over simple pieces with reinterpretations of house symbols, Burberry clothing is now framed with oversized Burberry blankets as scarves... A display of understanding modern design, with the occasional irreverently British touch of humour.
RE-EVALUATION OF A LEGENDARY HOUSE
Burberry was in need of a re-appreciation of its history. Born to represent the purest English society, Burberry clothing rises again with an integration of its history and future. The launch of new house symbols (the wax Burberry seal and the new Burberry blue) rebalances the scales of a modern maison with nearly 200 years of history.
After his stints at CELINE, Donna Karan, Margiela, and Balenciaga, it's clear that Daniel Lee has a special sensitivity for contemporary clothing. His dedication and passion for his work result in transformations of brands that leave no fashionista indifferent.