5 COLLECTIONS FROM MILAN FASHION WEEK 2024
Milan Fashion Week wrapped up on Sunday, showcasing designers' proposals for Spring/Summer 2025. Like other recent fashion weeks, the biggest trend has been the absence of (major) trends. This season, however, brands seem to be returning to storytelling.
This year, some established houses like Prada surprised us with the most unexpected twists. Bottega Veneta brought tears of emotion. And Tibi explored movement like never before. Let’s delve into what’s new from Bottega Veneta, Prada, Jil Sander, Gucci, and Tibi.
Bottega Veneta: Childhood and Fantasy
Matthieu Blazy has made Bottega Veneta the show everyone wants to attend in Milan. His new collection is inspired by childhood. With beanbag chairs shaped like animals and invitations styled as little bunnies, Blazy transported the audience to a place we all carry within: the nostalgia of childhood and play. Said Bottega Veneta animal seats were inspired by the Sacco easy chair, designed by Piero Gatti, Cesare Paolini and Franco Teodoro for Zanotta in 1968.
Prada: A Reaction to Algorithms
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons seem to have a penchant for commentary on the digital world. Their collection stood out for the individuality of each look, which Prada described as a reaction against a world governed by algorithms.
Inspired by digital influence since the dawn of the 4.0 era and rebelling against the pressures of personalisation on social media, the designers presented a runway that mixed the retro (archive, the past) with the futuristic (today, tomorrow). Astronaut-goggled hats, skirts with unusual slits, harnesses, straps, and many, many tiny silver mirrors.
The Prada collection didn’t follow its usual linear narrative; instead, it celebrated visual discordance and disorder as a form of resistance against the sameness produced by social media. For 2025, Prada invites consumers to reflect on the concept of personal style and to adopt a freer, self-defined approach. With a mix of sportswear, sequined dresses, and long-fringed coats, Prada and Simons once again propose a fashion that challenges the norm.
Jil Sander: Powerful Minimalism and Contemporary Darkness
Lucie and Luke Meier have taken Jil Sander to a darker place this season, reflecting the period of change we seem to be living through. Their main source of inspiration was the work of Canadian photographer Greg Girard, known for his urban night photography (worth a Google search).
Images of 1980s cars and motel rooms were printed on boxy shirts and skirts, complemented by an iridescent colour palette that echoed the neon lights of Girard’s work.
The collection stood out for its incorporation of delicate elements like three-dimensional floral embroidery and crochet panels, balancing the robust with the sensitive, nature against asphalt. Jil Sander is a brand that speaks to intellect and sensitivity.
Their collection opened Milan Fashion Week SS 2025 with an idea that would later be echoed by Prada and then Bottega Veneta: the 80s cuts are here to stay.
Gucci: “Casual Grandeur”
Sabato De Sarno takes his mission to make the world fall in love with Gucci again very seriously. His collection “Casual Grandeur” revisited the brand’s archives, with subtle nods to Jackie Kennedy and a blend of the 60s with a more modern twist.
De Sarno marked Gucci with a collection dedicated to an endless summer. Inspired by Jackie Kennedy and her personal style, the designer presented a show that took us through a spectrum of warm colours, from soft whites to yellows and deep Ancora reds, emulating a sunset with its summer hues.
Glimpses of Gucci’s history appeared with the reintroduction of the Bamboo and Jackie bags, some of them personalised by artist Daido Moriyama. The silhouettes and low-rise trousers exuded a sense of elevated casual wear through their cuts and materials, while sequin dresses and pieces inspired by Tom Ford’s iconic white suits added the nostalgic touch that De Sarno knows so well.
As the models danced to Fiordaliso’s “Non Voglio Mica La Luna” at the show’s finale, they closed the collection with the good humour and optimism Sabato has been striving for from the start.
Tibi: Creative Pragmatism
This show didn’t happen, nor does it take place, in Milan, but in New York. However, as one of the most sought-after brands at OTTODISANPIETRO, we wanted to include Tibi’s collection.
This time, Tibi pushed its own boundaries (without compromising the utility and wearability of its clothing). Amy Smilovic, the mind behind the brand, presented a collection that broke free from her own conventions, merging creative pragmatism with experimentation in everyday wear. With tailored suits featuring unusual details like hybrid jackets and trousers with visible zippers, Tibi aimed to make office wear anything but boring.
Thanks to its simple yet challenging aesthetic, Tibi advocates for versatility and self-expression. The collection highlighted a dropped waist silhouette and panels that add volume to otherwise straightforward pieces, emphasising the freedom to dress without rigid rules.
Sources: Vogue Runway, Nicole Phelps
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