THOUGHTS ON FASHION WEEK
With another fashion week behind us, there start the myriad of articles about trends and key moments during the events. It is evident that clothing trends, although increasingly diffuse, are of interest to our sector. However, we are interested in going further from these. In this instalment, we want to talk about behavioural trends in these last editions of our favorite weeks of the year.
Seeking the next viral thing
With the rise of the internet and social networks, the online space has become a constant battlefield of competition for the attention of users. Way back when, the big fashion houses such as Chanel or Alexander McQueen made use of spectacular stages and technologies to distinguish themselves. However, these elements came naturally to their innovative brands; it was attention-grabbing but true to labels’ DNA.
Nowadays, when authority is measured in likes and clicks, it’s been made evident this search for brands (specially the younger labels) for their next viral moment. From dresses that come undone while walking, to robots on the runways, the sky's the limit to viral creativity.
Social awareness
Fashion brands’ social awareness is one of the prerequisites for labels of today. From treaties of sustainability, to donations to causes of global relevance; names nowaday are expected to participate in global initiatives in one way or another.
The Prada Group was the first in the industry to sign a green deal in 2019, with initiatives to push for the creation of a more circular fashion scene. Among their activities, there’s the Re:Nylon fabrics, obtained from fishing nets recovered from the ocean. OAMC is another committed label, dedicating part of each collection to a cause chosen for every season.
Currently, Copenhagen Fashion Week (home to Ganni) continues to lead European fashion sustainability. To participate in it, there are 18 filters any label must fulfil to be considered sustainable. This includes there being at least 50% of the collections made in reused and sustainable materials.
A return to the classic and sartorial
The main new trend is the absence thereof. But if something has been made evident is the decline of streetwear amongst the great fashion houses. Fashion is cyclic in its behaviour, and although streetwear will likely not disappear thanks to its individuality and power, it can be said that it is not fashion’s forefront anymore. As Luke Meier said to Vogue in presenting his last OAMC collection:
“A lot of people were overwhelmed by this graphic, streetwear-infused sweatshirt land that we’ve been going through for a while,” Meier said. “I think it’s more about how you make tailoring work in a daily life scenario. It’s nice to abandon the idea of ‘event’ or formality and make it more friendly—you can throw on a beautifully tailored jacket and still wear it with a relaxed trouser or with a t-shirt underneath.”
Luke Meier –Creative Director at OAMC and Jil Sander
(VOGUE MAGAZINE, 2023)
The return to traditionally elegant fashion is not one without twists and alternatives to what is considered sophisticated. This can be seen in the new forms of layering (direct inheritance from the streetwear we’re overcoming), and the new silhouettes with renovated cuts. Oversized suit jackets or with shoulder pads, jackets worn by themselves and new colours conform the new conception of modern elegance.
Fashion is motivated by many both social and financial events, further from purely creative happenings. The industry constantly reacts to society, and vice versa. The perfect balance is yet to come, but we can clearly get a glimpse of how exclusive fashion getting closer to people through social media, and its demystification, have imbued fashion into society much more inextricably.
